Hvar by Car: Ferry Tips, Parking and Driving on Croatia’s Sunniest Island
Getting Your Car to Hvar: The Ferry Reality
Hvar is an island, which means your rental car needs to cross water. There is no bridge. The two main car ferry routes are from Split to Stari Grad (the northern port, closest to Hvar town) and from Drvenik to Sućuraj (the southern entry point, useful if you are driving up from Dubrovnik or Makarska). The Split to Stari Grad line is the most popular and runs roughly every 90 minutes in summer. A crossing takes about two hours. Jadrolinija operates the main service, and you should book online at least a few days ahead in July and August. Turn up without a reservation at 9am on a Saturday in peak season and you will be queueing for hours or turned away entirely.
The Drvenik to Sućuraj ferry is much shorter, around 35 minutes, and runs more frequently. It is the better choice if you are already on the Makarska Riviera or coming from the south. Sućuraj is a 45-minute drive from Hvar town along a narrow coastal road with some tight bends, so factor that in. This route is usually less congested than Split to Stari Grad.
Ferry prices for a car and driver vary by season. Expect to pay roughly €30–50 each way for a standard car in summer, with additional passenger fees on top. The car ferry does not operate overnight, so the last departures are typically around 8pm in summer and much earlier in winter. If you have an evening flight into Split Airport, plan to stay in Split overnight and catch the first ferry the next morning.
Driving on Hvar: What the Roads Are Actually Like
The island has one main artery, the D116, which runs from Stari Grad in the north to Sućuraj in the south, passing through Hvar town, Jelsa and Vrboska. This road is paved and generally in decent condition, but it is narrow, winding and shared by local buses, delivery trucks, scooters and the occasional cyclist who thinks they are in the Tour de France. Expect to pull over to let larger vehicles pass on the tighter sections.
Between Hvar town and the southern beaches around Milna and Dubovica, the roads get steeper and narrower. A compact car is perfectly adequate for most of the island. You do not need a 4×4 unless you plan to explore some of the rougher dirt tracks inland. An automatic gearbox makes the hill starts easier, especially if you are not confident with a manual on steep inclines.
Speed limits are 50km/h in built-up areas and 80km/h on the open road, though you will rarely reach the higher figure for long. The police do patrol, particularly near Hvar town, and they target tourists with rental plates. Stick to the limits. Seat belts are mandatory for everyone, and using a phone while driving is a €200 fine.
One practical note: there is no petrol station on Hvar island. The nearest pumps are in Split before you board the ferry, or on the mainland at Drvenik. Fill up before you cross. Running out of fuel mid-island is an expensive mistake that involves a tow back to the ferry.
Parking in Hvar Town: Where to Leave the Car
Parking in Hvar town is the single biggest frustration for drivers. The old town centre is pedestrianised, so you cannot drive into the harbour front or the main square. You have three realistic options.
The public car park at the bus station (just east of the old town, near the Arsenal) has around 200 spaces and charges roughly €2–3 per hour in summer, with a daily cap of about €15–20. It fills by 10am in July and August. There is a second surface lot near the Hula Hula beach bar to the west of town with similar pricing and similar congestion.
Many hotels and private rentals outside the old town offer parking. If you are staying in a villa or apartment in the hills above Hvar town, parking is usually free and plentiful. The trade-off is a 10–15 minute downhill walk into the centre, or a €5 taxi ride. When booking accommodation, verify whether parking is included and whether the access road is paved. Some hilltop properties have steep gravel tracks that scrape low bumpers.
If you are visiting for the day, the best strategy is to arrive before 9am, park at the bus station lot, and explore on foot. In the evening, local boys on scooters flag down drivers and offer to guide them to unofficial spaces on side streets. This is usually legitimate but expect to tip €2–5 for the convenience. Do not leave your car on yellow lines or in resident-only zones; traffic wardens are active and tickets are €40–80.
Stari Grad, Jelsa and the North: Quieter Roads, Easier Parking
Stari Grad, the island’s oldest settlement and main ferry port, is far calmer than Hvar town for drivers. The port area has short-term parking for ferry passengers, and the town itself has several small paid lots within a few minutes’ walk of the centre. The Riva waterfront promenade is pedestrianised but the restrictions are less aggressively enforced than in Hvar town.
Jelsa and Vrboska, the two villages on the northern coast, are even easier. Both have harbourside parking that is often free outside July and August. The road between Stari Grad and Jelsa is one of the prettiest on the island, running through vineyards and olive groves with sea views on one side. This is where a rental car really pays off, because public buses between these villages are infrequent and the best swimming spots are tucked down unmarked tracks.
The Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO-listed agricultural landscape, has a network of flat rural roads that are perfect for a leisurely drive. You can stop at roadside stalls for fresh figs, wine and olive oil. Just respect the fields and do not drive off the marked routes.
Fuel, Ferries and Final Tips
Fuel on the mainland costs roughly €1.50–1.65 per litre for petrol as of 2026. Diesel is slightly cheaper. There is no fuel on Hvar, so fill up in Split, Trogir or Drvenik before boarding. If you are doing a loop from Dubrovnik up through the islands, plan your refuelling around mainland stops.
Car ferries in Croatia do not require advance check-in like a plane, but you should arrive at the terminal at least 45 minutes before departure if you have a booking, and 90 minutes before if you are trying to buy a ticket on the spot in summer. Have your passport or ID ready; ferry staff check identity. The car deck loading is efficient but can feel chaotic if you have never done it before. Follow the marshalls, turn off your engine, and engage the handbrake firmly. The crossing can be rough in bad weather, so secure loose items in the car.
Finally, consider whether you actually need a car for your entire stay. Some visitors split their trip: rent a car on the mainland for the journey to Hvar, drop it in Split, then use local transport on the island for a few days, before picking up another car for onward travel. This saves ferry costs and parking hassle. For a direct comparison of your options, see our guide to car hire on Hvar.
Best Routes to Drive on Hvar
Once you have the car, the island rewards exploration. The drive from Hvar town to Sveta Nedjelja (on the south coast, beneath the cliffs) is dramatic, with switchbacks and views over the Pakleni Islands. The village itself has a pebble beach, a couple of good seafood restaurants, and the island’s best-known winery, Zlatan Otok. The road is narrow and steep in places but perfectly drivable in a compact car if you take it slowly.
The coastal road from Sućuraj to Hvar town along the eastern shore is less visited and offers empty coves and traditional villages. It takes about 45 minutes non-stop, but allow two hours with swimming breaks. There are no petrol stations and few shops along this route, so bring water and snacks.
For a short scenic loop, drive from Stari Grad up to the village of Brusje and back down to the coast near Milna. This takes 30 minutes and gives you a taste of the island’s inland hills without any difficult roads.
FAQ: Quick Answers for Hvar Drivers
- Do I need an International Driving Permit?
- EU and UK licence holders do not. Everyone else should carry an IDP alongside their home licence.
- Is there Uber on Hvar?
- No. Taxis are available in Hvar town and Stari Grad, but they are expensive and scarce at night. A car gives you real freedom.
- Can I take a rental car on the ferry?
- Yes, virtually all rental cars in Croatia can board ferries. Inform the rental company if you plan to cross to an island; some require a note in the contract.
- What happens if I miss the last ferry?
- You stay on the mainland or the island, depending on where you are. There is no 24-hour service. Plan accordingly, especially for early flights.
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